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Post by coldwater on Sept 5, 2010 21:19:46 GMT
Hi,
I am looking at replacing the traveler and track on my old tempest. I already have a Harken windward sheeting car, and two Harken small boat double block end controls. I don't need the double controls, but I found them on ebay, so that is what I have.
I am trying to figure out which track to get. The track that is on the boat is very similar to the Harken low beam track, but it is just over 1 inch in width with a 78mm hole spacing. I was going to purchase 1.8 meters of the low beam track, but the hole spacing ion Harken's new track is 100mm.
I see that there is a high beam "variable spacing track" that attaches with slugs and bolts. I'm not sure how that would work, or how you are supposed to hold bolt in place to tighten a nut on it when it is a meter inside a piece of track.
Anyway, I guess my question is simply has anyone replaced their traveler on an older, Proctor Tempest, with Harken parts, and what did you use? I am almost wondering if I should remove the old track, then epoxy a strip of fiberglass sheet along the entire top of the bridge for strength, then re-drill it for the new style track at 78mm spacing.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John Clement
[Agent:2]
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Post by coldwater on Sept 10, 2010 3:09:36 GMT
So, to answer my own question, in case anyone cares, the best way to go is to use the variable spacing track and purchase enough sliders to put a bolt in each hole left by the original track. The track is designed so that the head of the bolt fits tightly into it, allowing a nyloc nut to be tightened onto the bottom.
So I just need to purchase 1.8 meters of track, and two trim caps for the end. I hope I like the windward sheeting car. If not, I will just remove the windward sheeting parts and use the car.
John C.
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us307
The Main is up
Posts: 37
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Post by us307 on Sept 12, 2010 11:45:19 GMT
Let us know how the windward sheeting works out. I'm interested in that, but I've got a list of things to fix first, before I get to that. The present traveler system takes too many moves in too many places to work it, so it's a detriment in racing(at my skill level), instead of an asset. I have used it when racing upwind to the finish line and was able to sail a little higher by slacking the main sheet and moving the car to the windward which got me another place higher at the finish. The theory is good, but there is some debate about the practice.
Good luck with it.
US 307
[Agent:2]
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Post by coldwater on Sept 12, 2010 21:03:38 GMT
My traveler is set up as a continuous line, so I can easily bring it to windward, or ease it down any time. It is actually pretty easy to use. When I am about to gybe, or even tacking in very strong winds, I just release both sides then reset it after the turn. I'm not unhappy with it, other than the fact that the track is so old and battered, and the car so gummed up, that I can't keep it running well. Since I needed a new traveler, I looked at the WS set up, and found a fantastic deal on this car and end control blocks.
I can't even tell what make my original parts are. I have done my best to clean the car, replace the bearings etc., but just can't keep it moving freely. My concern is that the windward sheeting car will not be AS EASY to control as my current set up, since it has two control lines. So far I can't think of any way to use the windward sheeting function with a continuous line.
I will let you know how it goes. The way things are looking, I may not get it installed until Spring. Our season is about over up here.
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us307
The Main is up
Posts: 37
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Post by us307 on Jun 26, 2011 14:47:23 GMT
I did the same traveler replacement that you did, with the variable spacing track and used a 3:1 set up. It's amazingly simple to use, and now I am constantly balancing twist and boom position, where before I just took what I got because the old traveler was so hard to use.
One thing to watch out for. When calculating how long to cut off the track, allow enough room for the end caps to fit in the ends of the track so they don't hit the bolts or slides inside the track. I had to drill a couple extra holes because I didn't realize this. No biggie, but could have made it easier by making the track 0.5" longer.
My old track was a Ronstan.
US 307
[Agent:2]
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